 |
| Image source: Pixabay |
Lagte-lagte musalsal gham hi paaya hai
Iss khud-saar ne barson se dard khoob kamaaya hai,
Par dil toh aakhir dil hi hota hai, yeh aaj na roka jaayega,
Woh dekho, soorat sawaar-kar mehboob aaj phir aaya hai
DIL KHUD-SAAR HAI
A STEPWELL THAT'S RAJASTHAN'S INTERNATIONAL SECRET
Earlier this year, the Ministry of Tourism released the 2024 edition of its India Tourism Data Compendium. The publication provides an overview of India’s tourism statistics with insights on several key indicators, including statistics pertaining to inbound tourism, outbound tourism, domestic tourism, and the operational performance of key tourist spots across the country, among others.
One key indicator that the publication covers is the number of visitors to centrally-protected ticketed monuments.
About 55.4 million people visited 145 such ticketed monuments during FY24, of which almost 53.1 million were domestic tourists. That translates to only 2.3 million foreign tourists at such monuments during the year.
Given these numbers, it would be safe to presume that the number of domestic tourists at each monument would be several-fold higher a compared to foreign tourists. Indeed, that is true for almost all monuments, with some attractions even seeing 1000-4500x higher domestic tourist footfalls as compared to foreign ones.
Interestingly though, there are a handful of tourist spots where the number of foreign tourist visitors is almost at par with the domestic count. One of these spots, (surprising to me), is the Abhaneri Stepwell, also known as Chand Baori. Located in the Dausa district of Rajasthan (about 95 km from Jaipur), the stepwell is among the oldest (supposed to be built in the 9th century) and deepest (with as many as 13 levels) stepwells in India.
Originally constructed to conserve water in the arid region, the stepwell also served as a community gathering space. Its architectural precision and eerie symmetry have made it a favorite among foreign travelers and filmmakers alike—an ancient marvel hiding in plain sight just off the Golden Triangle route.
I captured these images sometime around December 2016.
.jpg)
While the Baori ranks among the top 10 most visited spots among foreign tourists, it stands at the 83rd spot (out of 145) when it comes to domestic tourists.
The next time you plan a trip in the proximity of the Jaipur-Fatehpur Sikri-Agra Golden Triangle, try to squeeze this somewhat hidden gem into your itinerary.
You can find the India Tourism Data Compendium 2024 HERE
This post is a part of the Blogchatter Half Marathon: October-November 2025.
SINDHUDURG DIARIES - PART 2: SINDHUDURG FORT & RAJKOT FORT
This is the second post in my Sindhudurg Diaries series. You can find general information about Sindhudurg district HERE and the first post in the series HERE.
In this post, we will cover Day 3 (technically our second full day) of travel in Sindhudurg, which covers the Sindhudurg Fort, and the Rajkot Fort, featuring a Smarak (monument) in honour of Chhatrapati Shivaji in the form of a 91-foot statue overlooking the Arabian Sea.
Me, my wife, and our 12-year-old son had completed our journey from Mumbai to Sindhudurg by train. Although we were scheduled to reach our destination by 5 pm, higher-than-usual congestion near Ratnagiri led to a delay of more than two hours. On the next day, technically our first full day in Sindhudurg, we went on a boat ride across several points on the Devbag peninsular backwaters. It was after the ride, while having dinner (Malvani style) at one of the better-looking restaurants near the jetty point, that we charted out our plan for the following day. The plan involved making a visit to some nearby forts, with a special focus on the Sindhudurg Fort.
The next morning though, we made some changes in our plan. Having reckoned that venturing out under the open sun in the vast fort complex during peak sunlight hours would be a tougher-than-anticipated challenge, we decided to start in the late afternoon to avoid the overhead sun.
Lunch at Breezywood
After taking the help of the hotel's helpdesk to book an autorickshaw for our trip, we proceeded on foot towards the Devbag jetty point for lunch. While it was only a 1.4 km walk with the beautiful Konkan coastline and a cathedral showing up at several junctures along the path, the humidity made this a very unpleasant and annoying experience for me. Once we reached our destination, a restaurant named Breezywood (which also happens to be a resort), I quickly took a seat under a fan.
The restaurant looks like a cool family-friendly cafe that you might find in a tourist hotspot like Goa. The ambience was relaxed and welcoming, and more important, the menu rates were pretty reasonable. My wife and son, who had been salivating since night at the thought of local seafood, ordered some Malvani style Surmai and Pomfret dishes and a Fish Thali. I, on the other hand, who dislikes seafood, called for something can almost NEVER go wrong - French Fries.
 |
| Our lunch at Breezywood |
We washed our meals down with super-chilled bottles of Maaza. The generous portion sizes and flawless flavours made the meal really satisfying and value-for-money.
Once we were done with our meal, I made a phone call to our designated autorickshaw guy. Thankfully, he was already stationed just outside the restaurant and we didn't have to wait at all. We all quickly got in to shield ourselves from the overhead sun and were soon on our way.
The road taking us towards the Sindhudurg Fort jetty point was long, narrow and winding, but one that afforded some interesting and breathtaking views of beaches, fields, pastures and other sights that you are least likely to see in crowded cities like Mumbai. We eventually reached the Malvan Ferry Terminal (from where we were supposed to hop onto a boat to take us to the fort) in about an hour's time, roughly around 3:30 in the noon. After a 5-7 minutes ride, we finally reached the island on which the majestic fort stood.
The Sindhudurg Fort
Sindhudurg Fort is considered among the most important forts in Maratha history. The fort was commissioned in 1664 by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, the founder of the Maratha empire, to assert Maratha dominance over the Konkan coast, control important maritime trade routes, and protect against foreign naval threats, particularly the Portuguese in Goa and the Siddis of Alibaug. It was built on the rocky island of Kurte in the Arabian Sea, just off the coast near Malvan. It was constructed over a period of three years (completed in 1667) using the spoils from the sacking of the port city of Surat, under the supervision of chief architect Hiroji Indulkar, and by enlisting the services of around 3,000 workers and about 200-300 Portuguese engineers from Goa. |
| The outer walls of the fort |
Spread over a 48-acre area, the fort's structure comprises perimeter walls that are nine metres high and three metres high, with ramparts running along for about three km in an irregular zigzag pattern, and featuring about 40-50 bastions. According to historical records, the walls were built using locally-quarried boulders, laterite, lime mortar, more than 70,00 kg of iron (particularly for the massive curtain wall and bastions) and about 500 barrels of molten lead (for the foundation and casting).
After Shivaji Maharaj's death in 1680, the fort had passed into the hands of his son Chhatrapati Rajaram, the Peshwas, and eventually to the British East India Company after the Third Anglo-Maratha War of 1818.
 |
| Plaque with information about the fort |
After disembarking from our boat, we had to walk on a rock-paved alley to reach the entrance of the fort. While walking the entrance, we were floored by its curved Gaumukhi construction style (cow’s face-shaped), designed to confuse enemies and prevent them from pinpointing the entry point from afar. All Maratha forts have a temple, idol, or sculpture of a Hindu Deity at the entrance gate; this fort had a domed shrine with a stone-carved idol of Lord Hanuman. As we walked further, we came across a large wooden door with metal spikes called the Dilli Darwaza; the door was constructed at an angle so as prevent easy access by elephants, battering rams, or any other large device/machinery by an attacking army.
 |
| Idol of Lord Hanuman |
As we walked ahead, we saw some stairs carved out of the rocks on a small hillock. Climbing up that flight of stairs took us to a temple dedicated to Bhavani Mata. After visiting the temple, we walked further and followed the crowds on a narrow path which somehow led us onto the rampart walls of the fort. From this point onwards, we continued along the fort's seemingly endless zigzagging ramparts for at least an hour, failing to find a single exit point. I must mention at this point that people who are afraid of heights should avoid it, despite the fact the path created along the walls was at least 12 feet wide.
We trudged along at a steady pace, while also carefully holding onto walls (where we could find them) and big boulders. From our viewpoint along the rocky path of the walls, we could see the structures, vegetation and ruins within the walls and also the vast expanse of the sea on the outside. The sound of the waves crashing into the fort's rocky facade and the refreshing bursts of breeze hitting our bodies at certain junctures during this walk along the ramparts made this a surreal experience for the three of us. During our walk we saw some steep staircases, guard rooms, water cisterns/reservoirs/tanks and an assembly area, among other structures and spots. We also happened to spot a small beach outside the fort's walls. We later found out that it is called 'Rani-chi Vela', which translates to 'the Queen's Beach'. Unfortunately, we did not have enough time to step onto this beach.
 |
| A view of Rani-chi vela (Queen's Beach) from atop the fort's walls |
After walking for about 45-50 minutes, we eventually reached a spot from where we were able to get off the fort's walls. The path took us to the 'Nishan Buruj', also known as 'Jhenda Buruj', a raised central point within the fort complex that doubled up as the flag bastion as well as a lookout point.
 |
| Breath-taking view of the sea from one the fort's bastions |
Shivaji Maharaj's Tulja Sword
After spending some time atop the flag bastion, we considered proceeding to the fort's jetty point for our return to the shore. However, I felt a tinge of dissatisfaction, because I had heard that one of the temples inside the fort housed Shivaji Maharaj's sword. Thankfully for us, our walk towards the exit gate eventually brought us to a small museum and the Shivrajeshwar Mandir. The temple was built by Chhatrapati Rajaram in 1695 to honour his father in the form of a deity. One of the Warrior King's battle swords named 'Tulja' is kept for worshipping purposes inside this temple. Unfortunately, visitors/devotees are not allowed to click photographs inside the temple premises.The small museum next to this temple houses a few artifacts from Shivaji Maharaj's times, including some swords, garments, coins from that era, some toys, etc. Some personal belongings of Shivaji Maharaj, including a sword gifted to him by his father, and casts featuring his handprint and footprints are also kept on display.
With all my goals for the visit finally accomplished, we got back to shore, got into our autorickshaw, and proceeded towards our next (and final) stop for the evening, the Rajkot Fort.
.jpg) |
| Left: Stairs inside Sindhudurg Fort leading to the Jhenda Buruj (the flag bastion) Right: Memorial plaque outside a nearby village offering tribute to Indian soldiers |
The Rajkot Fort and 91-foot-tall Shivaji Maharaj Smarak
The Rajkot Fort was built at the same time as Sindhudurg, to serve as a sea-facing military outpost and to provide logistical support to the larger sea fort. It is located barely half a kilometre from the Malvan Ferry Terminal. As of today, only one bastion remains with a flag post. The fort also has a garden where visitors come to enjoy watching waves crash against the rocky shoreline. |
| View of the Sindhudurg Fort from Rajkot Fort |
The main highlight of the fort is a 91-foot-tall bronze statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji. The statue, which shows him holding aloft a 29-foot sword and looking out at the vast expanse of the Arabian Sea with the panoramic view of the Sindhudurg Fort visible in the distance, stands as a symbol of Maratha pride and strength.
.jpg) |
| Glimpses of the 91-foot statue of Shivaji Maharaj and the sunset outside Rajkot Fort |
Interestingly, this was not the originally installed statue at the site. In late 2023, a 35-foot statue had been unveiled by Prime Minister Modi at the same spot. Unfortunately, this originally-installed statue had collapsed in August 2024 due to structural failure and other engineering lapses. Thankfully, the new, improved, and taller 91-foot-statue was built by May 2025.
Finally done with our visit to both spots, we proceeded on our journey back to our hotel. As our autorickshaw <missing phrase>, I was beaming from ear to ear. After all, I hadn't simply ticked off an iconic historical landmark from my list of 'places to visit before I die'. I had embarked on a journey through time, terrain, and emotion that will forever be etched in my memories.
See you soon in part three of this series.
This post is a part of the Blogchatter Half Marathon: October-November 2025.
WHEN THE LYRICS FINALLY LANDED
I'm sure many of you have listened to the song, "Gimme Hope Jo'anna".
Way back in 1988, this song reached #7 on the UK Singles Chart. I vividly remember this song being played at family functions and random get-togethers as a dance number (it continues to be played till date).
Strangely though, I only discovered the powerful message in the song's lyrics much later, when internet usage became mainstream. Eddy Grant wrote the song as a protest anthem against the apartheid system in South Africa (the name Jo'anna being used as reference to Johannesburg). While the song remained banned in South Africa during the colonial era prior to 1994, it garnered much-deserved airplay and popularity across the globe.
Way back in 1988, this song reached #7 on the UK Singles Chart. I vividly remember this song being played at family functions and random get-togethers as a dance number (it continues to be played till date).
Strangely though, I only discovered the powerful message in the song's lyrics much later, when internet usage became mainstream. Eddy Grant wrote the song as a protest anthem against the apartheid system in South Africa (the name Jo'anna being used as reference to Johannesburg). While the song remained banned in South Africa during the colonial era prior to 1994, it garnered much-deserved airplay and popularity across the globe.
As we inch towards 2026, the song continues to be a crowd favourite. And yet, the powerful message the song intended to convey remains lost on listeners to date.
Sometimes, we fail to connect with the theme and context of beautiful messages.
Also, sometimes, when it comes to landing a message strongly, setting the right context and also having the right audience makes a difference.
What do you think?
Meanwhile, here are the lyrics to the song:-
Gimme hope, Jo'anna
I hear she make all the golden money
Even the preacher who works for JesusP.S.: Jo'anna in this song is a stand-in for the city of Johannesburg, symbolising the seat of power of the apartheid regime in South Africa. And the word 'morning' in the song is a metaphor for a simmering social movement or revolution to overthrow the oppressive regime.
Meanwhile, here are the lyrics to the song:-
Well Jo'anna she runs a country
She runs in Durban and the Transvaal
She makes a few of her people happy, oh
She don't care about the rest at all
She's got a system they call apartheid
It keeps a brother in a subjection
But maybe pressure can make Jo'anna see
How everybody could a live as one
Gimme hope, Jo'anna
Hope, Jo'anna
Gimme hope, Jo'anna
'Fore the morning come
Gimme hope, Jo'anna
Hope, Jo'anna
Hope before the morning come
I hear she make all the golden money
To buy new weapons, any shape of guns
While every mother in black Soweto fears
The killing of another son
Sneakin' across all the neighbors' borders
Now and again having little fun
She doesn't care if the fun and games she play
Is dangerous to everyone
She's got supporters in high up places
Who turn their heads to the city sun
Jo'anna give them the fancy money
Oh to tempt anyone who'd come
She even knows how to swing opinion
In every magazine and the journals
For every bad move that this Jo'anna makes
They got a good explanation
Even the preacher who works for Jesus
The Archbishop who's a peaceful man
Together say that the freedom fighters
Will overcome the very strong
I want to know if you're blind Jo'anna
If you want to hear the sound of drums
Can't you see that the tide is turning
Oh don't make me wait till the morning come
P.S.: Jo'anna in this song is a stand-in for the city of Johannesburg, symbolising the seat of power of the apartheid regime in South Africa. And the word 'morning' in the song is a metaphor for a simmering social movement or revolution to overthrow the oppressive regime.
This post is a part of the Blogchatter Half Marathon: October-November 2025.
SIX-STRING INSPIRATIONS
I've always been a lover of music. Wide exposure (especially through the Internet) has made me an avid fan of music cutting across genres, ranging from 'Bollywood' music, Ghazals, Sufiana, Hindustani Classical music to Classic Rock and Heavy Metal. Although listening to music topped my personal list of stress-busters, learning the guitar was a thought that always fascinated me since my teenage days. I would sometimes borrow my sister's (who is younger) old guitar to try my hand, and slowly and patiently managed to work my way through the basics.
Although I no longer play regularly, playing the guitar has taught me a few valuable 'Life Lessons':-
- No Pain, No Gain: Bruised and blistered finger-tips can deter many beginners early on. But it is important to carry on. Eventually, the calluses formed on the fingertips through repeated friction help desensitise guitarists from the pain, and the guitar-playing only gets better. In life as well, perseverance pays off in the long run.
- Fear Hinders Progress: Early on, I purchased a capo thinking it would help me avoid barre chords. I even came up with a phrase of my own 'When Life Gives You Barre Chords, Put A Capo On It'. However, I eventually realised that avoiding barre chords led to heavy restrictions on my learning. After mastering the basic open chords, I couldn't play beyond a few simple songs only because I did not know have to play barre chords. When it finally dawned upon me that I was only restricting myself by creating an artificial path around a challenge, I decided to let go of my fear and ditch the capo. Although it was painful and extremely frustrating in the beginning, it opened up a whole new world for me. In life as well, one must learn to let go of fear and take a leap of faith. You might end up failing, but at least you moved.
- It's Okay to Ask for Help: Although I did not take help from a personal guitar coach, I did not hesitate to look up tutorial videos on YouTube or even consult friends for help with strumming patterns and chord progressions. Seeking help does not amount to self-doubt and does not mean admitting that you are weak; it simply means you want to improve.
- It's Never Too Late to Learn: Most of the world-renowned guitarists started off pretty early, with an average age of 15 being the latest (Judas Priest's Glenn Tipton apparently started out at age 21). Although I'm nowhere in the A-league of guitarists, I'm not the only one to have decided to learn to play the guitar after crossing the age of 30. It is never too late to start learning; learning can start at any time and can go on till a person's final breath.
- Understanding 'Why' Can Make Life Easier: There is logic and science behind the sounds a guitar makes - string combinations, string tension, muting effect, et al. Likewise, people and things behave in a certain manner for a plethora of underlying reasons. Understand this helps us gain wonderful perspectives and insights about people and about life at large.
- Innate Talent Can Be An Advantage: Like many others, I was fortunate to have an innate ear for music. I realised I had the advantage of identifying right notes from flawed ones, and this held me in good stead. There is nothing to be guilty about using your innate talent to your advantage. In fact, not putting your talents to good use is foolish.
- Talent Without Hard Work Does Not Guarantee Success: You might be a naturally gifted musician at heart, endowed with all the flair and brilliance that the best guitarists possess. But if you do not work hard at sharpening your skills, you will not progress beyond a certain level.
- Passion Can Be a Form of Escapism: Often, the love for playing guitar can transcend the passion for music; it could reflect escapism or a filler to a void in a person's life, or perhaps something to boost a person's sagging self-image. It is okay to pursue something passionately to fill a void, but one must be careful to be able to draw the limits so as to not let his/her alternate life take control of conventional life.
- Perfect String + Bad Tuning = Noise: A perfect guitar string that is tuned badly can ruin a musical performance, even though the string is not inherently flawed. Likewise, most people are inherently nice, but could come across as repulsive simply because of behaviour spawned by bad experiences.
- It is hard to hold onto a habit that you don't enjoy: It is not unusual to hear about people who initially take to the guitar with full enthusiasm, but eventually the interest fizzes out. The same can be said about gymming, and about hobbies. If you decide to pursue something that you do not enjoy, and that you are not really passionate about, you are bound to end it sooner or later.
This post is a part of the Blogchatter Half Marathon: October-November 2025.
THE LOW-LA MIXTAPE
The year 2025 seems to have passed by like a bad dream.
In terms of career prospects and personal finances, the year has been one of several failures and disappointments. One bright silver lining though is that I have managed to make time to revisit my blog and make an attempt to revive it.
The year also saw certain Indian companies make the news for all the wrong reasons. One such company was a manufacturer of electric scooters (let's call the brand Low-La), who began launching his products with great fanfare from 2021 onwards, but has been facing severe brickbats because of the alarming rate of breakdowns ever since.
What makes you cringe is not the seemingly massive failure of his product, but his arrogant and defiant attitude, and the lack of urgency he is showing to address service requests and redressal of complaints. As of date, he seems to be spending more time posting on social media and getting into spats with stand up comedians on X (formerly known as Twitter).
According to reliable sources (only reliable to yours truly), a small set of irate customers are planning to put together a music album in the form of a mix-tape. The move is expected to help them build pressure on the company and also possibly recover some of the money wasted on their scooters.
Since I never hesitate to put in extra efforts to keep my readers ahead of the news, I have decided to share the tracklist with you. Enjoy!
Track #1: Oh Break-Downeya
Sung to the tune of Oh Bedardeya from the movie Tu Jhoothi Main Makkaar (2023)
A heart-wrenching ballad of betrayal by a scooter that suddenly conked off mid-ride.
Track #2: Aaj Ki Raat
Sung to the tune of the sizzling item number from the movie Stree 2 (2024)
The new version goes like this:
Thodi fursat bhi meri jaan kabhi customer care ko dijiye,
Aaj ki raat sazaa ride ka service centre se lijiye!
The seductive energy of the original takes a new lease of life with the service centre's come-hither vibe.
Track #3: Tere Vaaste Sadak Pe Main Parts Launga
Sung to the tune of "Tere Vaaste" from the movie Zara Hatke Zara Bachke (2023)
The music video for this song apparently features an over-eager love-crazy guy promising to find spare parts and accessories to get his lady love's electric bike up and running again.
A reprise version of the song, which goes "tere vaaste sadak pe tow van launga" is also on the cards. Stay tuned.
Track #4: Scoot Lutt Putt Gaya
Sung to the tune of "Lutt Putt Gaya" from the movie Dunki (2023)
No explanation needed here. Every single customer's review, loud and clear!
Track #5: Tauba Tauba
Sung to the tune of Karan Aujla's chartbuster featuring Vicky Kaushal, from the movie Bad Newz (2024)
In this song, the protagonist delivers a high-style calling out of the manufacturer's false promises.
Track #6: Aaya Re Toofaan
Sung to the tune of AR Rehman's hit from the movie Chhaava (2025)
Contrary to what many believe, this song is not about the speed of the electric bikes. It is actually about the speed of the oncoming deluge of customer complaints and service/repair requests.
Track #7: Uyi Amma
Sung to the tune of Madhubanti Bagchi's popular track from the not-so-popular movie Azaad (2025)
"Uyi amma haaye haaye main toh marr gayi" is the scooter's battery crooning with full energy before unexpectedly running out of juice. Perhaps the "...main toh marr gayi" warning should have been taken seriously.
Track #8: Khada Hoon Aaj Bhi Wahin
Sung to the tune of Delhi band The Local Train's indie-rock ballad, Choo Lo (2015), which has somehow seen renewed interest on Instagram over the past couple of years.
The track's intro goes "khada hoon aaj bhi wahi, ki dil phir bekarar hai, khada hu aaj bhi wahi, ki tera intezaar hai". A poetic lament about being stranded, both physically and emotionally, next to a scooter that simply refuses to move.
Track #9: Scatoor (Scooter)
Sung to the tune of Ghafoor from The Ba***rds of Bollywood
Very apt, because those scooters really are bad(ly-made) MFs.
Track #10: Breaky
Sung to the tune of Sanju Rathod's Marathi sensation "Shaky Shaky" (2025).
Instead of "ek number, tujhi kambar, hay chaal shaky shaky", the lyrics to the revamped version go "fake wonder, mothi blunder, tujhi bike shaky breaky"
Bonus tracks from the past: For people like me whose playlists take an awful amount of time to evolve.
Track #11: Kaise Hua? Kaise Hua? Tu Itna Khataara Kaise Hua?
Sung to the tune of "Kaise Hua" from the movie Kabir Singh (2019)
A tear-jerking introspective ballad, in the form of an interrogation of a scooter that promised mobility and delivered worthless scrap instead. The song also symbolizes the disappointment and disillusionment that owners of these blessed two-wheelers have ended up with.
Track #12: Email Na Koi Sandesh
Sung to the tune of Jagjit Singh's ghazal "Chitthi Na Koi Sandesh" (1998)
A song about the pain and frustration that builds up when follow-up calls, emails, and other correspondence go unanswered for months.
Track #13: Sadak Tak Chal Saath Mere
Sung to the tune of "Falak Tak Chal Saath Mere" from the movie Tashan (2008)
When your scooter is no longer able to run on wheels and battery, all you can do is 'walk' it down (bad) memory lane.
Track #14: Aaya Tow Van Jhoom Ke
Sung to the tune of "Aaya Saawan Jhoom Ke", the title track from a Dharmendra-Asha Parekh starrer (1969).
A song of abject surrender, half celebrating the arrival of the tow van with relief, resignation, and a hint of madness.
There you go! Hope you liked the tracklist. Do feel free to add your own recommendations in the comments section below.
This post is a part of the Blogchatter Half Marathon: October-November 2025.
SINDHUDURG DIARIES - PART 1
This is a follow-up on my previous post, where I had attempted to showcase Sindhudurg.
For those of you who weren't able to read the previous post, my wife and son, who are suspected thalassophiles (fancy term for beach lovers), were eager to go on a holiday to Goa during their school Diwali break. Me, on the other hand, who didn't want to visit the same place again (we had last visited Goa in October 2021), suggested that we visit some other coastal town. When I finally managed to get a go-ahead on this, my research on scenic beach towns with a rich history and a sprinkling of ancient & medieval historical monuments led me to Sindhudurg as our holiday spot.
With this post, the first in a series of three, I am taking you along for a dive into our first full day in this coastal gem.
Choosing our accommodation
When it comes to looking for accommodation options, I like to start by plotting out all places of interest within a city/town and then make decisions based on factors like room cost, proximity to airports/railway stations, tourist spots and restaurants & eateries. In our case, we zeroed in on the Devbag peninsula (see Google Map screenshots below), hoping for smaller crowds and richer experiences. Going by the map, we believed that this spot would have a lot to offer in terms of beautiful beaches (including the sea on all three sides as the southernmost point of the peninsula), and unique experiences of the confluence of the tranquil backwaters of the Karli River and the vast expanse of the Arabian Sea at a point called the "Sangam".
We booked a room for 3 nights/4 days at Hotel Ocean Bliss. The booking was done on Indigo Airlines' hotel booking portal through an app which gave us a cashback of Rs.1,500. For more details on this cashback app, read this post.
The Train to Sindhudurg
The next important thing for us to decide was how to travel to Sindhudurg. We didn't fancy a 11 to 12-hour drive, so our next best (and most feasible and budget-friendly) option was to travel by train.
The Sindhudurg Express (10105 Diva-Sawantwadi Road) was our best bet at the time. On paper, the train was supposed to depart from Diva Junction (in the Thane district of the state of Maharashtra) at as early as 06:25 IST and was supposed to get us to our destination (either Sindhudurg or Kudal railway station) before 5 pm the same evening. The seats we had booked were in economy AC coaches, so we were looking forward to a comfortable and humidity-free journey.
With a 6:25 am departure, we had to wake at an unearthly hour (I actually woke up a few minutes before my 3 am alarm screeched to life). Although we managed to reach the station about 20 minutes before the departure time (we should have actually reached earlier, but Mumbai never sleeps), we had a tough time finding the correct platform. After a dozen frantic foot-over-bridge sprints and a volley of commuter queries, we found our way to the correct platform and our bogie just in time.
The journey went as planned until about 1:30 in the noon. From this point onwards, however, the train was forced to halt for more than an hour at a station named Ukshi to allow several other trains to cross the route. The congestion got cleared only at around 2:30 pm, and our train finally reached its destination at around 7pm, almost two hours later than scheduled.
 |
| The entrance to Sindhudurg railway station |
We were afraid that we might not be able to find transportation at the railway station so late in the evening. Thankfully, there were several rickshaws standing in wait, and we negotiated a deal with one. Having reached our hotel at around 8:30 pm, we simply dropped our bags in the room, proceeded to the restaurant for a quick dinner, and retired to our room for the night.
The next morning was a struggle to wake up for the complementary breakfast, since the previous day's travelling had left us really tired. At the breakfast table, I got my wife to agree that we would only relax in the hotel or at the private beach adjunct to the hotel. However, by around 12:30 in the noon, my wife changed her mind and got me to go for a stroll outside the hotel.
And that's where we were approached by a few local guys asking us if we would be interested in a motor boat ride to Tsunami Island and other spots. Our kilometre-long walk led to conversations with at least three different people on the subject, and eventually culminated in a deal struck with one of them for 3 pm.
And I must say that was a wonderful experience!
Our Boat Ride to Tsunami Island
For Rs.2,000, we had the boat all to ourselves. We were asked to take our shoes off at the jetty point before getting into the boat. Once the ride began, our navigator (who also doubled up as a guide) gave us information about all the beaches on the route, the forts & bastions on the shoreline, a lighthouse (close to a place called Vengurla on the Maharashtra-Goa border), and other interesting points on the route.
 |
| Our ride for the evening |
There was a unique sand bar in the middle of the sea, called Seagull island. We were told that seagulls, who are migratory birds from colder regions of Europe and Central Asia, frequent this spot at certain points of time during the day. What is also unique about this 'island' is that it only emerges from the sea during low tides.
Another golden spot on the route, and I mean that literally, was a unique scenic rock formation called the 'Golden Rocks' near the Nivati beach. The rocks shine like gold during sunrise and sunset, offering stunning views.
 |
| Golden Rock |
Also on this route were a couple of decrepit and forlorn forts on the hills skirting the shoreline; the names I am able to recall are Sarjekot and Nivati Killa. Then there was a lush coconut grove, which the navigator referred to as Mini Kerala.
At some point during the ride, the boatman pointed to a patch of the sea where apparently dolphins sometimes show up. Unfortunately, we were not able to spot anything.
Further down the line, he showed us the 'sangam point', viz., the point of convergence of the region's Karli river and the Arabian Sea.
On our journey back towards the jetty, the boatman made a 30 to 40-minute halt at the last spot on the ride, a small sandbar-like island at the delta of the Tarkarli river. Although some locals claim (falsely or out of ignorance) that the island was the formed after a tsunami in 2004, it is a natural phenomenon wherein an otherwise completely submerged sandbar appears only during low tide. Locals conduct water sports activities on this sandy strip, including banana boat rides, speed boating rides, kayaking, and others.
For the three of us, however, the biggest highlight was the intricate rangoli-like designs that we saw across almost the entire stretch. We soon realized these rangoli-like patterns were tiny sand bubbles—crafted by unseen sea creatures beneath.
It was only after a closer look that my wife spotted at least a million small-sized crabs peeking out of all of these holes!
When a local saw us treading carefully (partly out of fear of hurting them and partly out of the fear of getting attacked by the crabby multitude), he told us that they didn't bite. That’s when we shed all our hesitation, tiptoed through the crabby crowd, and captured it all on video. I have pasted one of these below for your viewing pleasure.
After clicking some wonderful shots of the sunset, we decided to get back to shore.
 |
| Sunset at Tsunami Island |
At the end of the almost two-hour boat ride, we went to have an early dinner at a Malvani Restaurant near the jetty point. In between bites and smiles, the three of us began a discussion and agreed that this was one of our best memories for 2025.
 |
| Clicked outside the jetty point |
Hope you enjoyed this somewhat lengthy post. Do share your thoughts, past experiences, and questions in the comments section.
Resource Links:-
Disclaimer: Some of the links on this blog post are affiliate links. This means that if you click through and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission—at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products and services I genuinely find useful or believe will add value to my readers.
This post is a part of the Blogchatter Half Marathon: October-November 2025.
FANCY A SOJOURN IN SERENE SINDHUDURG?
Back in mid-September, my wife reminded me (actually clenched her teeth and gave me an ultimatum) that she and our 12-year old boy didn't want to spend their Diwali vacation doing nothing at home. After all attempts to change her mind failed, I set myself on a tough mission to find a holiday destination that ticked everyone's boxes, while also not burning a big festive hole in our pocket.
At this juncture I must tell you that my wife and son are both beach people. I, on the other hand, have a soft (a red-hot) spot for old forts, palaces, temples and other ancient & medieval historical monuments.
So I put on my travel-planner hat and consulted Google Maps in my quest for a spot close to Mumbai that offered both sea and history. My approach was to add Mumbai as the starting point and Goa as the destination, and then search for sea forts along the route. This approach threw up several results on the long western coastline, as you will see in the image below. After excluding several spots that we had already visited, including Madh within Mumbai limits, Alibag and Murud-Janjira in the Raigad district, and Goa, I was eventually left with previously uncharted spots in the Ratnagiri and Sindhudurg districts.
 |
| Snapshot of my Google Maps search result |
Sindhudurg, a coastal district located about 460-500 km away from Mumbai, is steeped in rich Maratha history, and is famed for its sea and hill forts, pristine beaches, Malvani cuisine, and rich biodiversity. The district came into being in 1981, when it was carved out of an erstwhile much bigger Ratnagiri. As of today, Sindhudurg comprises the tahsils of Sawantwadi, Kudal, Vengurla, Malvan, Devgad, Kankavli, Vaibhavwadi, and Dodamarg.
Named after the iconic Sindhudurg Fort built by Chhatrapati Shivaji in the 17th century, the district literally means “fort in the sea.” With a 122-km-long coastline running along the Arabian Sea on the West and the Sahyadri hills forming its eastern boundary, the district has a lot to offer in terms of scenic beauty and ecological purity. The district forms the southern-most point of the state of Maharashtra, sharing borders with Goa and Karnataka.
Some of the top tourist attractions of Sindhudurg are as under:-
The Sindhudurg Fort
 |
| Image: https://maharashtratourism.gov.in/ |
Rajkot Fort and Chhatrapati Shivaji Smarak
 |
| Image: https://nativeplanet.com/ |
The Tarkarli, Malvan and Devbag Beaches
 |
| Image: https://maharashtratourism.gov.in/ |
The Devbag Peninsula, the Karli River Backwaters and Tsunami Island
 |
| Image: https://maharashtratourism.gov.in |
Geoglyphs/Petroglyphs of Konkan
 |
| Image: https://travelkonkan.in/ |
The Malvan Marine Sanctuary
 |
| Image: https://maharashtratourism.gov.in/ |
Rock Garden & Chivla Beach
 |
| Image: https://maharashtratourism.gov.in/ |
Located next to Chivla beach (and a few minutes drive from the Sindhudurg fort jetty) point, Malvan’s Rock Garden is a landscaped garden situated on the rocky shores of the sea. Featuring a children's playground and sea-facing benches, it is visited by many for breathtaking views of waves crashing against the rocks and beautiful multi-hued sunsets.
Temples
 |
| Image: https://maharashtratourism.gov.in/ |
The Sawantwadi Palace (Rajwada)
 |
| Image: https://sawantwadipalace.com/ |
Local Cuisine & Konkani Culture
From spicy Malvani seafood to solkadhi and mango-based desserts, the region’s food is a highlight in itself. Cultural festivals and local handicrafts add flavor to the experience. You can make a visit to local marketplaces to buy Kokam syrups, cashews, and Malvani masalas/spices.
How to Reach
By Train
This is the mode I chose. The closest railway stations to Sindhudurg are at Sindhudurg, Kudal, and Sawantwadi. I must warn you that the train journey can be really long, all exceeding 9-10 hours (including delays caused by excess traffic on certain railway crossing zones). But I personally consider this a less tiring and stressful mode as compared to driving on narrow road sections. All three railway stations are about an hour's drive from Sindhudurg. You could either hire an auto-rickshaw from just outside these railway stations (they don't follow the meter, so negotiate well), or request your hotel to pre-book a vehicle on your behalf.
I was able to do my train bookings through Amazon.
By Road
If you fancy driving, you will need to get onto National Highway 66 (NH-66), that runs roughly north–south along the coast, parallel to the Western Ghats, passing through the states of Maharashtra, Goa, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu.
By Air
The district's Chipi Airport was inaugurated in October 2021. There are flights operated by a domestic carrier named Fly91 to Bengaluru, Goa, Hyderabad and Pune. Goa's Manohar International Airport is about 1-2 hours away.
Where to Stay
I personally like to mark out all my must-visit spots on Google Maps and add an additional search for hotels close to most of these spots before triangulating on my stay options. Since this is a coastal town, I looked for something that was adjacent to a less-crowded beach.
My search got me to book a room at Hotel Ocean Bliss in Devbag, which fit my budget. While it does not have too many amenities, it has a decent restaurant, good sea-view rooms, and a gate that opens directly onto the beach.
 |
| Clicked by me on the beach in front of our hotel |
 |
| The entrance to our hotel's restaurant |
Besides MakeMyTrip, GoIbibo, Skyscanner and other hotel aggregating websites, check out for deals on Indigo Airline's Hotel bookings portal as well. I was initially unable to find a room in my hotel on other websites, but was able to on Indigo. Not sure why, but maybe this is because airlines tend to have a steady inventory of rooms for their crew, ground staff and passengers at several points.
Hope you enjoyed this somewhat lengthy post. Do share your thoughts and experiences, and feel free to pose questions (if any) in the comments section.
Resource Links:-
Disclaimer: Some of the links on this blog post are affiliate links. This means that if you click through and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission—at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products and services I genuinely find useful or believe will add value to my readers.
This post is a part of the Blogchatter Half Marathon: October-November 2025.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)